Day 2: Valbona to Çeremi
Monday 27 July 2026, 14km, 1200m up, 950m down

Villas Jezerca to VITA Guesthouse

In the wee hours we heard the first cracks of thunder followed by the initial drops of rain on our roof that progressed quickly to a torrential downpour lasting until well after the sun rose. When we looked out of our window, we could see a lake over the lawn encroaching on the mosaic stone paths.  When the rain eased, we took the opportunity to make a dash for the restaurant. This required an ankle deep wade through ground water wetting shoes and socks before even the hike began. Breakfast was the usual spread of eggs, cheese, tomato and cucumber and crepes.

Around the yard the ducks were happily playing in the water  while a bedraggled group of chickens crowded together under an outside table for shelter. Unfortunately when I tried to get a closer photo, they scattered back out into the rain.

Despite the clearing skies, we decided not to risk the high route (Prosllopit Pass 2039m). The guide book advises that it should not be attempted in bad weather. Brad, Nikki and Lauren decided to risk it but the rest of us opted for the low route. We set off walking down the road for a couple of hours to the trailhead and then headed up the narrow muddy path beside the rushing water of the river that we were to follow. Peter was struggling with nausea that had started the day before but soldiered on with us up the path. It wasn’t long before we came across a small creek that we crossed quite easily. A few minutes further and we were stopped at another stream. We could see the trail marker on the far side, and the track leading steeply uphill. The stream that should have been easily forded, was now a raging torrent. Consulting the map  we could see that there were 2 more crossings of the same stream soon after. We decided the safe move was to retrace our steps and proceed to town by the road.

As we descended, we passed a few more groups of hikers, also hoping to follow this route and we advised them of the conditions ahead. Some turned back with us, others went on to check the situation out for themselves, but we saw them all again later, also opting for the road rather than risking the trail.

Fortunately for Pete, when we got back to the road there was a car dropping people off at the trailhead and the driver agreed to take 4 of us plus an extra pack up to the town, while Rob and I decided to walk on ourselves.  The first hour was easy and downhill. Then we took the turn onto a 4WD track climbing steeply up to the town. At this point, Rob began to feel unwell. No cars would stop for us, so there was nothing for it but to plod on upwards. A couple of passing drivers advised us to take shortcuts which allowed us to miss a couple of road  switchbacks. This cut out a couple of road sections, but the way was steep and raspberry or blackberry bushes stretched thorny branches across the trail. We had walked half the distance before a van stopped to give us a lift the last few kms to finally arrive at our accommodation.