Day 1: Theth to Valbona
Sunday 26 July 2026, 21.2km, 1070m up, 850m down

Guesthouse Trojet e Mija to Villas Jezerca

Stage 1 of our hike commenced with a walk down the road into the village of Theth, then up a dirt road which turned into a forest path, winding up the mountainside. We had enjoyed a generous breakfast of omelets with salad, followed by crepes with butter and jam or honey. Along with the breakfast, we were supplied with lunch makings carefully wrapped in foil packages.

After about an hour of ascent, we came across a makeshift shelter which was a cafe selling coffees and cold drinks. It was a welcome brief break and we relaxed, certain that we were making good progress and could afford to take this day’s hike at a leisurely pace. Further up the mountain we found another cafe where we used the bathroom facilities and shared some chocolate bars.

Onwards we continued to finally reach the mountain pass (1759m) where we could leave our packs and ascend higher to take in the incredible views.

The forbidding stone peaks rise all around us. In between the dolomite walls are ribbons of unmelted snow, and down below are grassy valleys with rivers flowing over white stone beds. We are in the Accursed Mountains which form part of the border between the Balkan countries of Albania, Montenegro and Kosova.

This section between Theth and Valbona is apparently a popular day hike and we passed, I would guess, a hundred or more people, mainly tourists, and many from Australia, hiking in either direction. We found a spot on the far side of the pass where we could take in the view and enjoy our lunch of tomatoes, cheese, cucumber and sausage on slices of bread, polished off with hard boiled eggs.

As we continued down the mountain to the valley below, we marvelled at the beauty of the peaks ahead and to either side. From the valley floor the track continued along a rocky path which finally ended at a road leading into Valbona and the chalets where 6 of us will spend the night. Brad, Elisa and Nikki have rooms in another set of chalets down the road where we joined them for dinner.