Day 6: Refuge du Vallonbrun to Bonneval-sur-Arc
Friday 14 August 2026, 16km, 180m up, 640m down

The storm that was predicted to strike at 2pm yesterday finally started with thunder and lightning at around 5. Four of the expected hikers arrived drenched from the rain at about 7 – just in time for dinner, which consisted of soup followed by vegetable curry with rice, and a piece of blueberry cake to finish.

Breakfast this morning was simple fare – muesli/granola, juice, coffee/tea/hot chocolate and bread with condiments. The sky was clear as we set off but the forecast was for storms and rain from about midday.

Today’s hike was to be shorter, mostly downhill, to finish in the town of Bonneval-Sur-Arc down in the valley. The descent was along a narrow path, wet from last night’s rain, but the surface mud was tacky rather than slippery and we reached the valley and river quite quickly. From there, we simply followed a 4WD road. On the way we passed a massive black rock (Rocher du Château) which has a neolithic dated painting of deer on one face. Originally there were 8 deer depicted but the red colour has faded now to be almost indistinguishable from the distance.

The town remained hidden until we were within 200m. Bonneval-Sur-Arc is very quaint with stone chalets, narrow stone paved streets, cafes spilling out onto the road. Altogether, the mountain huts and small villages give the impression that little has changed over hundreds of years.

Despite being summer, this town which supports the surrounding ski slopes in winter, is humming with tourists. We saw a sign advertising via ferrata which can be accessed here as well as hiking, and we watched a wind surfer descend from the mountaintop.

Already we have ticked off the town jobs:

1. Eat lunch, drink
2. Purchase supplies for breakfast from a supermarket
3. Shower (much needed)
4. Wash clothes, hang to dry.

Unfortunately, the promised rain has arrived so the clothes might not dry on the line. Hopefully we can finish the process in our room.