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Tirana to Theth

July 25, 2026 Peaks of the Balkans No Comments

Our complementary breakfast this morning was buffet style – and included an impressive array of both savoury and sweet samplings of mainly local cuisine. We each had 2 helpings and enjoyed the fresh fruit, various vegetable dishes, eggs and meat. Back to our rooms we collected our gear together, and headed out to where our driver had indicated he was waiting. We were a little confused when a driver of a small hatchback approached, identifying himself as the one we had arranged for the trip to Theth. We explained that we were a party of 5, how would we fit into the tiny cab? Without a lot of English, he opened the boot revealing a 5th passenger seat. Anticipating a winding road, I was allocated the front passenger seat and the others drew straws for who would take first stint in the cramped back seat.

At first the road was relatively straight and flat. The traffic was quite heavy, slowing us initially, and giving plenty of opportunity to take in the scenery.  We passed many buildings that appeared unfinished – construction halted halfway, with no evidence of ongoing building activity. Others had residual scaffolding poking up from the roof, hopeful, perhaps, of expanding skywards in a more prosperous future. Other buildings were crumbling into disrepair or left standing but half demolished. Scattered amongst these were the occasional new and sometimes attractive buildings suggesting that the country’s fortunes might be turning for the better.

After leaving the town of Shkoder, we turned towards Theth, onto a narrower and less busy road. We read in the guide book that this had been a dirt road, only recently surfaced with asphalt. Now there are stretches of low stone walls bordering both sides of the bitumen and the width barely allows 2 cars to pass.

Albania has a very interesting history. Many relics of the past have no doubt been lost in recent conflicts, but we passed a couple of ancient hilltop castles with fortifications. Always in the distance loomed magnificent mountains and when we finally reached our accommodation, we found it to be nestled in a valley bound by the beautiful peaks that we will be hiking through and around.

We are enjoying a restful day. Apart from a short walk into the main town, we have been catching up on each other’s news, playing cards, and enjoying more of the local food. We hope to soon be joined by the other 4 travellers – our son, Brad, his partner Elisa, and our other 2 friends, Zoe and Nikki.

Travelling

Day 1: Theth to Valbona

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