After a two night stay with Robert’s parents in  Lane Cove, we set off from Sydney on our flight booked to Perth, then Rome, then finally connecting with a short flight to Tirana, Albania. We didn’t expect comfort in economy class but the trip went smoothly and the short stopovers gave us enough time to easily locate and board the next flight. To our relief, our checked-in luggage also arrived in Tirana with us and there was no queue through customs, so we walked straight out of the small airport where the taxi driver was patiently waiting with a sign reading ‘Robert Loudon’.

Tevit, the driver, chatted pleasantly as he drove us to our booked accommodation and repeatedly told us to ‘relax’, ‘chill’, ‘you don’t need to hurry’. We must have looked very tired and harassed after our 30 hour journey! At the hotel reception we were greeted politely and shown to the cafe where we had our first meal in Albania – a fresh Greek Salad and a chicken and ‘pine stick’ (pine nut) risotto.

Pete, Andra and our friend Lauren had spent last night at the same hotel and, by the time we had showered and washed some clothes, they had returned from exploring the town. Our guest house room is comfortable with good air conditioning. We left Hobart winter temperatures in July to arrive in Europe during a heat wave so we are not apologising for taking full advantage of the air cooler. It won’t be long before we are hiking in 30 degree temperatures.

Dinner was at a restaurant just a short walk away. The streets are dusty and busy, footpaths are uneven and littered and we are relieved that the cars stop obligingly for us to cross when we step onto the roads. Pete and the others had eaten at the same restaurant the night before and assured us that the Albanian fare was good. Between us we sampled half a dozen delicious national dishes. Meatballs and roasted vegetables are flavoured with local cheese and yoghurt based sauces. There were triangles of flaky pastry layered with spinach and feta or tomato and onion. All became instant favourites which we hope to experience in the days ahead.