Day 11: Vusanje to Theth
Wednesday 5 August 2026, 24.8km, 1110m up, 1440m down

Guest House Kollata to Guest House Trojet e Mija

Last night, following a game of cards, we had the expected wrangle over what time we should meet for breakfast. A compromise was reached – brekkie at 7.15 to allow an 8 am start.

The hike today was a really spectacular walk up the Ropojana Valley with a towering sawtooth wall of jagged peaks on either side. We passed a seasonal lake bed (Čemerikino jezero) then crossed from Montenegro to Albania.

Then to the Pejë Pass (Qafa e Pejës) 1707m, and a long steep descent to the valley. This stunning section was book-ended between two stretches of walking on dusty 4WD roads.

The consensus was that the hike today was probably the best section of the actual Peaks of the Balkans circuit. The other two contenders for the most scenic day were the ascent of Kosova’s highest peak and the Volusnica loop that was yesterday’s hike. Both of those days were side trips that Rob had researched beforehand, and not part of the official route.

On returning to Theth, we were hot and dusty and enjoyed a very quick plunge into the icy waters of the river which runs through the town. Others of the group cooled down with ice blocks and cold drinks.

Dinner was a time of reflection on the highs and lows of the trip. We were all agreed that the Peaks of the Balkans is one of the best trails any of us have done. Tomorrow Brad, Elisa and Nikki head off early  to their next adventure. Pete, Andra Zoe, Rob and I will get a later taxi back to Tirana. From there we will head in different directions. Rob and I will be travelling to Modane, France to start another mountainous hike in the Vanoise National Park in the French Alps.