Hordes of hungry mosquitoes followed us in clouds as we hiked this morning driving us to distraction. Many hikers we passed were wearing headnets and all were keeping moving so as not to be eaten alive!Late morning the path wound through some long stretches of burnt forest with little or no recovery growth and, although it was bleak and barren, we welcomed the reduction in mosquito population that accompanied the dry region.The other difficulty was the lack of water. There were initially streams of snow melt but we held off filling up until the 3 Mile stream marked on our map. Unfortunately it turned out to be a stagnant pool. As there was no more water on the path for another 20 miles we had to make do with it and hoped that the filter worked adequately. It tasted fine anyway.We hiked on into Mazamo village only to find that the allocated PCT campsite was closed and all the other campsites were taken. Fortunately a friendly camper allowed us to share the campsite his family were using and we enjoyed time with him around the campfire before retiring to bed.The campsite does have showers and laundry as well as a Cafe and store and we have made use of all those facilities.

The first thing we noticed after reaching our campsite last night was a monumental increase in the number of mosquitoes. That did not diminish but increased as the day wore on. They are particularly persistent and not at all put off by the permithrin which we used to treat our clothes.

The day started out cloudy and humid but the skies cleared by lunchtime and, since we couldn’t stop for long breaks due to the mozzie, we made good time hiking.

Our main concern today was the snow which we knew we would encounter in the late afternoon. We had been warned that the north side of Devil’s Peak could be a dangerous snow descent on a steep slope. Hikers coming south past us however assured us that we could get through without problems if we took it slowly.

We put our microspikes on just as a precaution but the snow was not too slippery and there was no difficulty finding the path between the snowy patches.

So, although we were hoping for no snow at all on our northbound (Nobo) hike, so far it has been manageable.

Our calculations show that we completed 26 miles today and we have passed more than 2000 km altogether.

Tomorrow we should reach Mazama village.

The hiking today was not spectacular but also not difficult. It was mostly forest paths that are soft with pine needles. The only hiccup was a relative lack of water which required a water carry of about 18 miles from mile 5 to the final campsite.

Our lunch stop was at a little refuge hut. We didn’t need to stop inside but used the picnic table outside and it was a pleasant change from sitting on the ground.

For the afternoon we were hiking much of the time on stretches of path that traversed volcanic rocks (basalt?) which was harder going and slower as we took care not to slide or trip.

After 22 miles we arrived at a point where the trail intersects the highway and it wasn’t long before we managed a hitch 2 miles down the road to Fish Lake ‘resort’. We were able to buy a new fuel cylinder as well as a great dinner – excellent milkshakes, pea and ham soup and burgers. While waiting for the food I was able to nip across to the shower and for $1.50 I had 3 minutes to wash myself and my socks and undies. Unfortunately the water stopped while I was still a bit soapy but my wash cloth was pretty wet and got most of the soap off. Then it was used for drying because we aren’t carrying the extra weight of a towel in our packs.

Then it was back to the restaurant for the hot meal feeling clean (ish). When we had finished refuelling we hiked out and soon were offered a lift to the trailhead and 0.1 mile along we have a tent set up beside the swiftly flowing Rogue River. Mozzies are humming around the tent and we expect to be hiking and sleeping to their tune for at least the next couple of weeks.

We had a couple of ideas of how to sort out our “food crisis” which were formed as we pondered the problem overnight.

One idea was to try and purchase a new canister of fuel from a place not far from the trail. Hyatt Lake was on the path today and there is a nearby resort. We had read that they sometimes delivered pizza to the point where the road intersects the trail. Mid morning Rob rang them to see if they had any fuel – no they did not – and then asked if they might deliver a pizza to the trail – also no as they didn’t have enough staff to deliver.

Today we passed two trail registers. It’s good to see who is hiking ahead of you.

The next plan was to have a camp fire and heat up water in our pot using that. We arrived at our camp spot and found that there was an established fire pit located right beside the road. As we were unsure of the current fire regulations in Oregon, we only made a very small fire and made sure we doused it completely until we could feel that the ashes were cold. The food was good and after walking 25.5 miles we were ready for bed.

After a restful night and successful cleanup we managed to resupply in town before meeting OG for lunch at a Cafe. An Uber got us back to OG’s camping spot and, when all packed up, we headed out along the steep climb back to the PCT.

We watered up about 2 miles along and after 8 miles of hiking we reached the campground and set up our tent.

While sitting around cooking dinner I was showing off the interesting dinners I had planned for the nights ahead. OG was eating his cold soaked ramen. I had bagged up couscous with olives, pine nuts, dates and dried shiitake mushrooms for one meal and various other combinations for other nights. We shared out the Idaho potatoes and vegetable chips while I heated the next pot of water for gravy when the stove went off. We had unexpectedly used up our fuel! No more hot meals for this section unless we can find a replacement. Humbled, chastened for bragging, we have headed to bed!

We camped just inside the Oregon border and got walking at our usual 6am. Our plan was to hike 25 miles to get to a resort called Callahans.

It was pleasant hiking weather, but included one long hill climb where we ascended about 1000′. Right at the crest a trail angel had left two eskies full of soft drink cans. Needless to say we enjoyed one and it became our lunch stop.

When we got to Callahans, there were no rooms available (4th of July weekend) and although we could have paid to camp, do laundry and shower, Ros and I decided to go for a motel in Ashland 10 miles away while OG opted to camp at Callahans. We got a lift from a lovely older couple who live in Ashland and took us right to the motel.

The motel was a good pick as it was reasonably priced, included breakfast, was spacious and was two blocks from a laundromat. We enjoyed a great meal at a Greek restaurant wearing our rainpants and down jackets as our laundry was being done. Then back to the motel to clean our gear and plan the resupply we need to do tomorrow.

Another beautiful sunrise this morning – that’s the advantage of starting early every day. We find the first hour of walking is always really enjoyable in the early morning light.

The terrain was not too bad but it was quite warm during the day. We met several hikers including one guy who today was finishing the one section that he couldn’t do when through- hiking last year due to fire closure.

Our target today was to reach the California / Oregon border, which we did at about 6:15pm after hiking 25 miles. So far we have done about 1000 miles in California and will come back to do the remaining 700 miles last after finishing Oregon (309 miles more to do) and Washington (about 500 miles).

OG surprised us with a reward of an orange and chocolate bar for reaching Oregon. A nice finish to our dinner of two minute noodles.

Last night as we were dropping off to sleep we heard some crashing about in the bush just outside our tent. It turned out to be a couple of hikers looking for a tent space. Unfortunately for them, we had taken the only available flat area, so they ended up sleeping on the nearby footbridge. The track continued to be quite overgrown.

We walked about 12 miles into the small village of Seiad Valley. On the way we saw a young buck (we have seen quite a few does).

Fortunately the general store and Cafe were open even though it was a public holiday as OG needed to collect a new pair of shoes that he had posted to the store. We enjoyed a lunch at the Cafe, then set out again, climbing more than 5000′ up into the mountains. It was a gruelling climb in the hot sun, but fortunately we could replenish our water from a spring on the way up.

Now we are camped it is quite windy and probably will be a cool night.

We managed 22 miles which we were pleased with considering the steep climb and the two and a half hours we spent in town.

Today was not as spectacular as previous days but still very beautiful nonetheless. The first half of the day continued along high mountains and there were a few small snow drifts to go over.

Then we started descending along a path that was very overgrown in parts with many fallen trees to pass over, under or around. Also lots of poison oak near the track to avoid.

As we descended we encountered new species of wildflowers that we had not seen before. Overall the amount of wildflowers, and new growth in general, is amazing. We also saw a few more deer.

Today was another ‘tenner’, and we did 25 miles altogether.

One of the staff from the motel in Etna gave us a ride back to the trail, and we were underway about 9am.

The trail in the morning was fairly level but in the afternoon we had steeper grades and rougher stoney track.

Still, the scenery was magnificent and the weather perfect. Due to the late start we only did 19 miles.