Day 20, Jul 3, 2024
From Luz Saint Sauveur to Refuge d’Aygues Cluses
24 km hiked, 37.4% complete

The clouds had lifted this morning, heralding the start of a fine day. After a late breakfast, we set off from the campground to find the beginning of the next section of the GR10. It wasn’t clear at all and we ended up following another hiker who was sure he knew the way. As it turned out, although the track was correct according to the guidebook, the GR10 had since been rerouted and we were following the old track.

The initial climb was steep but mostly avoided roads and we again enjoyed views of the countryside. Following the ascent over a hill, we cruised along a flattish track which finally took us through yet another very beautiful forest of mainly beech trees,  the track strewn with dead leaves. Then we  came out finally at the town of Bereges and had another search to get us back onto the latest version of the GR10, ready to tackle the start of the next section.

We headed up out of Bereges and through valleys leading back up into the high mountains. On the way, we passed a little food van with tables and chairs set up nearby. The set-up was at the landing site for a group of parachutists and we enjoyed watching them float down while we cooled down with ice blocks.

From there we plodded up a stretch of bitumen road and then back onto a rocky track up a series of very beautiful hanging valleys.

Despite the distance walked being not that far, we were hiking for about 10 hours, with a few breaks, and are now exhausted.

We are camped beside a lake and not far from a fancy new refuge. There is a small herd of cows right around our tent and we hope their clanging bells and occasional snorts don’t  continue all night. Not far away on the hillside we saw a group of chamois grazing – unfortunately, though, too far for a photo.