Day 18, Jul 1, 2024
From Lac d’Estaing to Cauterets
16 km hiked, 32.7% complete

With a forecast of a fine morning followed by likely rain in the afternoon, we woke with high hopes for clear skies and great views. We were disappointed. Either we spent the morning in low cloud, or we enjoyed continuous drizzle. The uphill was a long slog (1100m ascent) and there was nothing to see below except cloud. Once over the top of the  Col d’Ilhéou we had a section of less steep terrain and we crossed more farmland.

On the way up, we encountered a flock of sheep. This is always a bit disconcerting as, where there are sheep, there are likely to be patou guarding them. We hurried past as quickly as we could on the steep path but did not see any of the big white Pyrenees sheep dogs. On the descent, 2 border collies raced up to greet us. One was very friendly and wouldn’t go until we had each given him a long pat and ear scratch. The other one insisted on having a game of fetch as we passed!

Further down the track, we came across a refuge. Although we had no plans to stay for the night, we couldn’t pass up on the chance for a cooked lunch, hot drink, and homemade cake, especially since breakfast had been very light – a few crackers and shared muesli bar.

On downwards the trail went for another 2+ hours, and we opted to walk some of the way on the road. This was for 2 reasons – the downward track was slippery, wet, and steep; and Ros had a migraine aura come on and was unable to see clearly for about 20 or 30 minutes. Fortunately, Panadol kicked in and the ensuing headache wasn’t bad. We made it into the town of Cauteret by 2 pm, and were able to check into our accommodation, shower, wash clothes, and buy some supplies from a nearby supermarket.