Day 12, Jun 25, 2024
From Lescun to Etsaut
14.7 km hiked, 23.2% complete

The morning dawned fine and hot and we were able to eat at a nearby restaurant that provided toast with jam, orange juice and tea/coffee in cups that look like soup bowls! After breakfast and buying food enough to last the next few days, we said goodbye to Peter, who is taking a few days’ break in a larger town to rest his sore leg.

Once out of town, we were soon progressing along a leaf strewn track through a lovely beech forest. This is the second fine day in a row, and it wasn’t until we had half the ascent behind us before the air was cooler and we experienced a pleasant breeze. The mud had largely dried up, making our way much more pleasant.

Lunch at the top of the Col was rice crackers with tomato, followed by a handful of mixed nuts.

Then, as we headed downhill, we came across a flock of sheep that had wandered across the track in front of us. We had been warned about the sheep dogs – large fluffy white dogs that look quite like sheep, called patou. They guard the sheep and will attack anyone or anything that they see as a threat to themselves or the flock.  We could see at least 3 patou accompanying this flock, so we backed up, then sat and waited for the sheep to move on so we could continue down to the town of Etsaut.

Although our accommodation tonight is very basic, the cost includes dinner and breakfast, which is very convenient and allows for an early start in the morning.